Beards and Beer

Philadelphia. The city of Brotherly Love in which the 13 colonies declared their independence from Great Britain and signed the Constitution into existence. A city obsessed with Ben Franklin. Where high crime rates scare off foreign tourists (to their disadvantage) and young artists come to explore their art, music, theatre, dance in a city much calmer than New York.

I loved my four days in Philly. Gorging on inordinate amounts of food (Philly Cheesesteaks - wow), drinking copious levels of good beer, exploring the history of America and wandering past stunning museums and art galleries; there really is a hell of a lot to do in a city that is ignored by many. I was here to experience the city with a friend, a relatively new friend, who's had a pretty tough time of it lately, but for whom my love and friendship has rapidly blossomed.

As I've said before, there's something to be said for travelling alone. You get to follow your own schedule, see your own sights and meet fellow travellers along the way. But, there is also something to be said for experiencing somewhere with a good friend, a good friend who can show you the best places; the places that aren't on any tourist map. I was introduced to other friends, taken to exciting bars and restaurants, and at every turn given a great run down of why this area was important, different, exciting. I enjoyed it and fell into the tour so much that, when given two hours alone, I forgot how to be a single traveller and went and hid in a Starbucks with a coffee! Being in a foreign country and having travelled alone, the importance of strong friendships have become clear to me. To cultivate this wonderful friendship has been a blessing.

But now, to a few of my observations:

• Men have beards. Seriously. Beards everywhere. I, a man partial to some facial fuzz, was very excited at the prospect of so many bearded bears in the Gayborhood. I wasn't disappointed.
• Much of social and cultural interaction in Philly revolves around beer and food. Perhaps why I felt so at home there?
• The American grid system of streets makes navigation SO much easier. Yes, I know straight streets are boring - especially when they're called '1st' or '2nd' - but at least you ALWAYS know where you are or where to go.
• The city has a big heart. You can see it in the food, in the history, in the streets. It is a beautiful city, with an incredible skyline and wonderful views, but it is not pretentious in being so. It says to the world, 'I'm beautiful, but I want you to come and see the whole me'. A refreshing change from New York City - where beauty is somewhat skin deep.

I also spent a morning wandering around the campus of UPenn (breathtaking) with someone who has, rapidly, become very important to me. A fellow Fairfax campaigner, we grew extremely close in the last few weeks of the election. His values, intelligence, sense of humour; it combines into a truly special person (with a pretty amazing Philly beard) that I am incredibly pleased to have known. Unfortunately, the natural development cannot take place - due to that blue mass perched between our countries - but I'm sure that, in him, whilst I may not have found a permanent feature of my life; I have found a dear friend and soulmate. Our shared experiences will forever bring us close together and I will remain thankful for the time we did have. And to experience a bit of Philly with him - well, it just made me love the city even more. 

And so, to New York City

A whirlwind of culture, vistas, art, history, comedy, bright lights and more - so much has been written about New York. A city of millions; where even a walk ten blocks will take you into wildly different neighbourhoods. I never believed I could feel so comfortable alone in such a giant city - but I do. In much the same way as London; people are crammed into the streets and buildings, but you easily find public spaces where you can relax and take stock.

I spent my first day exploring the bright lights and crazy atmosphere of midtown, around Broadway and the infamous Times Square - popping into Grand Central Station and the New York Public Library for good measure. Being a Wednesday, I really wanted to get myself some tickets to a matinee show on Broadway - but not one of the big ridiculous musicals, something more intimate and exciting. So, there I was, in a huge line at the TKTS stall when I asked a woman what I should see. She went through a number of options, finally settling on a zany, Python-esque show called Peter and the Starcatcher; suggesting the cheapest ticket they'd have was $60. My interest piqued, but my wallet screaming, I asked whether there was any other way to see it? And lo, the lottery was mentioned! At the box office, two hours before, you could place your name in a hat and, if picked, buy a seat for $27. I rushed to the office, put my name in the hate and returned half an hour later for the reading. With 28 seats available, and only ten people in line, I was guaranteed a cheap seat and boy, was it worth it. A spectacular, heart warming, beautiful and rapid take on the back story to Peter Pan - with actors multi-rolling and some truly hilarious moments - I sat in the second row completely attentive for the entire show. Add to this the opportunity to meet a few great people in the line (one of which I went out for dinner with the next night) and this $27 was utterly worth it. Apparently many shows have this, so, if you're on broadway - check it out. Don't pay full price!!

I spent the evening of my first day catching up with a friend who I last saw two years ago in Bangladesh. There is something so spectacular about meeting up with someone after two years of relatively little contact and realising that you still have an incredible amount in common. Over a couple of glasses of wine and dinner, we chatted for a good three hours about the campaign, politics, our lives, boys - pretty much everything.

My second day was spent exploring the incredible vistas of New York City. From the 9/11 memorial; a moving and emotional tribute to those that died and the world that changed, I went on to take the Staten Island Ferry. A completely free way of seeing the incredible views of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty, it was a great trip and, on a sunny and windy day, well worth doing. Next, I wandered the streets of Greenwich village - exploring the places where the struggle for gay rights began - and moved on to the High Line. A remarkably calm stretch of parkland positioned 3 stories above the streets of the West Side, strolling here was incredible tranquil and the views of streets and the Hudson were wonderful. I then moved on to the big one, the Empire State Building. I went expecting crowds, I was lucky. I didn't queue at all, paying my $25 and being able to spend at least half an hour at the top just soaking in the romantic and breathtaking views across the skyscrapers to New Jersey and beyond. It would have been wonderful to share it with someone special, but the silence and beauty I experienced were unparalleled in the city. And finally, I ended my day with a stroll along the Brooklyn Bridge, standing in the middle as the sun set, taking in the skyline as it turned from day into night - a brilliant, neon aura engulfed many of the most famous buildings. It was wonderful.

With tiredness in my feet, I decided a relatively easy day was needed for my third and final full day in the city. Beginning with a tour of the United Nations Headquarters, I went for a political and cultural tour. The UN has a very special place in my heart, and to see the Security Council Chamber and General Assembly, where so many important decisions have been taken, wars averted and humanitarian crises managed was humbling. Yes, the UN sometimes has problems being dominated by western powers, but it is a grand institution for peace, and we are a much safer world with it. I then went for an exploration of the Met. It was crowded and busy, but well worth it. Avoid the suggested donation of $25 and pay what you wish - everyone does it, and you should not feel bad. As a cheap traveller, and a believer in the free access to culture and art, I gave them $1. The crowds flocked to the European Paintings and Egyptian galleries - I, after a brief exploration of Egypt, went straight for the Asian Art section. And what a decision! It was pretty much empty, I was alone in many of the galleries, but the sculpture and paintings were utterly astounding. If you go anywhere in the museum, go there - in a world where we are centred around Western art and culture, this was extremely different and exciting. To end, I spent the evening at a comedy club, watching seven performers improvise a musical based on an interview with an audience member.

My time in NYC has been astounding and wonderful. I came wanting to see so much, and I have probably only seen a tiny fraction. It is with a heavy heart that I leave, knowing it may be a while before I return; but it is also with excitement. As I move on to Philadelphia, and four days with a wonderful friend. This US tour just keeps on giving.

Victory Tour - Boston

The perfect place to stop, take stock and contemplate. Boston, the largest city in New England, perhaps one of the most European cities in the United States has served me well as the beginning of my US tour in the wake of the stunning Obama victory. It is a beautiful city - with stunning vistas across the Charles River to Cambridge on one side, and an urban skyline on the other - walking around takes very little time, and it is always worth it.

I can't say that I have done everything here - far from it - but I feel that I've seen the highlights of an intellectual, sport-loving and architecturally beautiful city. My favourite places have been:

• Walking along the Esplanade. I spent my first morning wandering along the river, reading plaques about the history of the esplanade. Stunning views across bridges and the river really added to a sense of peace and calm that was most welcome after the previously incredibly hectic week.
• The Mary Baker Eddy Library and Mapparium. A building that has the lofty ambition of being for the 'Betterment of Humanity'; the Library itself is a stunning piece of architecture. And, at $6, it is entirely worth taking the 15 minute Mapparium tour. A huge glass globe with incredibly bizarre acoustics, walking inside you are reminded just how small and close we really are.
• The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The site of one of the greatest art thefts in recent times, this is a fantastic building. Housing an eclectic mix of mainly renaissance art, the Venetian style building is breathtaking in itself, and completely worth the entry fee.
• The JFK Museum and Library. Itself, an interesting look at the history of JFK and the other Kennedys. However, it is the setting and the building that are particularly stunning. On a bright and blustery day as I visited it, the views are spectacular and it was nice to get out and see Boston from another angle.

There are plenty more sights - wandering through history on the Freedom Trail into the North End, with its lovely Italian restaurants; a drink at the top of the Prudential tower; Trinity Church. Boston is a city I very much enjoy.

This period has also been my first attempt at travelling alone. After a shaky start, being awkward in talking to people, I quickly made some friends that I could hang out with. Dinner with a Belgian/Canadian - our poor grasp of each other's language wasn't particularly useful; drinks in a pub with an incredibly interesting Nigerian man who really wanted to change the world and a night out with an eclectic mix of people - starting in a blues bar and ending up in a cheap college dive bar where the beer was big but the nacho's were huge! I enjoy the opportunity to explore alone but spend evenings with new found friends, learning their culture and their values. It is a confusing situation to grasp onto someone as a friend, spend a night with them, and then part knowing you'll almost certainly never see them again.

And so, I leave Boston happy that I have had a chance to stop and contemplate. On to New York, and the crazy sights of a huge city. I can't wait.

Success

To the best campaign team and volunteers in the history of politics. The best. The best ever...
Thank you for believing all the way, through every hill, through every valley.
Barack Obama, 06/11/2012, Chicago, IL

And so, here I am. Contemplating and computing the astounding victory. The progress of four years that will not be wasted. The incredibly hard work of thousands of people across Virginia and the United States that paid off. The belief that America isn't a country just for the wealthy; but a country equal for all - where opportunity exists, where people can follow their dreams with whomever they love, where government provides a helping hand to those in the most desperate of need.

Its still sinking in the magnitude of the victory. Out of all the major swing states, Romney won just one (Florida, yet to be called, looks like it'll go the right way way). That is astonishing. Ohio, Virginia, New Hampshire, Colorado - all of these states saw how important the President's message was. As I watched the  results come in - completely worn out from one of the most hectic four days of my life - I knew that America, and the world, would be a better, safer and more open place in four years time.

In every single precinct in Fairfax that I worked closely in for two months (bar one) the margin of victory for Obama actually increased. Phenomenal. This was replicated across Fairfax and other important parts of the state - offsetting Romney's increases on four years ago in Republican strong holds. This victory is, in my opinion, almost solely down to the ground game. For over a year, Organizing for America has had a presence in Fairfax - building neighbourhood teams, contacting those who's votes we could turn, persuading our supporters how essential it was they came to the polls. Hundreds and hundreds of volunteers gave up their evenings and their weekends to make calls and knock on doors because they saw just how important it was. And their hard work and dedication paid off. 

I am utterly proud to have been a small part of this historic moment. I gave everything I could to re-electing the President because I believed that, not just for the US but for the world, his victory is what was needed. I worked late, I started early, I knocked hundreds of doors, probably made a good few thousand phone calls. Some days, it was hard and I wondered why I came all this way. But Saturday to Tuesday - that was my reason. The buzz in the office was like nothing I'd ever experienced - here were hundreds of people who gave up just a couple of hours to join forces with people who shared their values; taking ownership of an important cause. To be able to share in that feeling - well, it'll be hard to beat.

There are so many people I want to thank, so many people I wish I'd had an opportunity to say goodbye to. Unfortunately, in the hectic wake of Tuesday night - rushing out with food and water to the polls to keep people in line - I missed the chance to do so. They won't read this, but I want to thank them anyway. From the bottom of my heart. For making me welcome, for understanding why I needed to be here, for giving me the belief in myself that I could make a difference. They made this happen. They are the core of what President Barack Obama believes in. They are what keeps America on the right path. They are my friends. My family. They are people I may never see again. But they are people I truly, deeply love. And I feel incredibly humbled by them all.